LEATHERS-006/011: COMMON PROBLEMS WITH LEATHERS AND SUEDES (COLOR CHANGES)

Common Problems in Cleaning Leather & Suedes: Color Changes

Among the most common problems with cleaning leather and suedes is color change, which can be caused by a variety of reasons. Some garments have the "natural" colors of the original tanned skins, others are treated in dye baths during the tanning and finishing of the leathers, and on some garments, dyes are sprayed on the leathers after manufacturing. Each manufacturer uses different dyes, and dyes can be considerably different in their color fastness, or their color fastness in different cleaning media. As cleaners, we usually don't know which dyes are colorfast and which dyes will run or bleed until we actually clean the garment. Colorfastness can vary from one garment to the next, even coming from the same manufacturer, sometimes due to the differences in individual skins or in the defects in individual skins.

During the fabrication process, the manufacturer tries to match the skins so that a garment is consistent in color, texture, and feel. The better quality the garment, the more care was generally taken in both the tanning process and in the selection and processing of skins. However, even in the best garments, some change and variation in texture, color, and feel is normal and expected. The specific types of color changes are:

COLOR FADING
Mild fading of color can result from exposure of the garment to sun and air. This is a natural part of the "oxidation" process of the skins that occurs with the aging of the garment. Frequently it may become more apparent after a garment has been cleaned. Sometimes the soil in the garment before cleaning will give the illusion that the garment was darker in color than it may have been, and the removal of the soil gives the appearance of fading during cleaning.

Fading as a result of the loss of dye during the cleaning process is a less common problem in the "Clean & Green" system. In the perc or petroleum cleaning processes, the garment is routinely denuded of its color, with the color being restored by spraying after cleaning.

In the "Clean & Green" process, color is not routinely restored by spraying and may appear to result in color loss, although color loss is slight compared to cleaning in solvent ( Perc or petroleum solvents ).

If an individual garment appears faded or seems unsatisfactory to the customer, color can usually -- but not always -- be restored by returning the garment to the plant. Generally, this is a minor problem. Please be sure to indicate in some way the color matching desired by the customer. Since the sprayer in the plant cannot know the original color, he is generally making an approximation based upon the color that appears under the collar, where the leather has had less exposure to the sun and other elements.

UNEVEN COLOR IN ONE AREA OF THE GARMENT
On occasion, color may appear to be uneven in one section of the garment.

This is frequently a result of uneven oils or fats in the original skin or uneven absorption of oils, fats, or dyes during the tanning process. Sometimes the cleaner can correct this; frequently he cannot.

This is a less frequent problem in the "Clean & Green" system since the cleaning process is less harsh and does not remove the natural skin oils to the same extent as solvents.

UNEVEN COLOR IN DIFFERENT SECTIONS OF THE GARMENT
When a garment is manufactured, skins or hides are used from different parts of the animal, or from different animals altogether.nbsp; These different, unmatched skins may have very different properties with regard to natural oil or fat content or absorption and retention of impregnated tanning oils and dyes. This can result in unevenness of color that only becomes apparent after cleaning. Sometimes this can be corrected if the garment is returned to the plant.

SEVERE COLOR LOSS
If a garment was cleaned in solvent, this is common and is routinely corrected by spraying.

COLOR OR DYE TRANSFER
Most frequently seen in multi-color garments cleaned in solvent. This occurs because one or more of the colors was not colorfast and bled from one section of the garment to another, generally a result of a manufacturer not using colorfast dyes. This is a far less frequent problem with garments cleaned by a water-based system.

A similar problem can occur with cloth garments, especially those with light colors, that have leather trim. The trim may bleed, leaving color on the fabric. Sometimes this can be corrected.

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	Common Problems in Cleaning Leather & Suedes: Color Changes

	Among the most common problems with cleaning leather and suedes is color change, which can be caused by a variety of reasons. Some garments have the "natural" colors of the original tanned skins, others are treated in dye baths during the tanning and finishing of the leathers, and on some garments, dyes are sprayed on the leathers after manufacturing. Each manufacturer uses different dyes, and dyes can be considerably different in their color fastness, or their color fastness in different cleaning media. As cleaners, we usually don't know which dyes are colorfast and which dyes will run or bleed until we actually clean the garment. Colorfastness can vary from one garment to the next, even coming from the same manufacturer, sometimes due to the differences in individual skins or in the defects in individual skins. During the fabrication process, the manufacturer tries to match the skins so that a garment is consistent in color, texture, and feel. The better quality the garment, the more care was generally taken in both the tanning process and in the selection and processing of skins. However, even in the best garments, some change and variation in texture, color, and feel is normal and expected. The specific types of color changes are: COLOR FADING Mild fading of color can result from exposure of the garment to sun and air. This is a natural part of the "oxidation" process of the skins that occurs with the aging of the garment. Frequently it may become more apparent after a garment has been cleaned. Sometimes the soil in the garment before cleaning will give the illusion that the garment was darker in color than it may have been, and the removal of the soil gives the appearance of fading during cleaning. Fading as a result of the loss of dye during the cleaning process is a less common problem in the "Clean & Green" system. In the perc or petroleum cleaning processes, the garment is routinely denuded of its color, with the color being restored by spraying after cleaning. In the "Clean & Green" process, color is not routinely restored by spraying and may appear to result in color loss, although color loss is slight compared to cleaning in solvent ( Perc or petroleum solvents ). If an individual garment appears faded or seems unsatisfactory to the customer, color can usually -- but not always -- be restored by returning the garment to the plant. Generally, this is a minor problem. Please be sure to indicate in some way the color matching desired by the customer. Since the sprayer in the plant cannot know the original color, he is generally making an approximation based upon the color that appears under the collar, where the leather has had less exposure to the sun and other elements. UNEVEN COLOR IN ONE AREA OF THE GARMENT On occasion, color may appear to be uneven in one section of the garment. This is frequently a result of uneven oils or fats in the original skin or uneven absorption of oils, fats, or dyes during the tanning process. Sometimes the cleaner can correct this; frequently he cannot. This is a less frequent problem in the "Clean & Green" system since the cleaning process is less harsh and does not remove the natural skin oils to the same extent as solvents. UNEVEN COLOR IN DIFFERENT SECTIONS OF THE GARMENT When a garment is manufactured, skins or hides are used from different parts of the animal, or from different animals altogether.nbsp; These different, unmatched skins may have very different properties with regard to natural oil or fat content or absorption and retention of impregnated tanning oils and dyes. This can result in unevenness of color that only becomes apparent after cleaning. Sometimes this can be corrected if the garment is returned to the plant. SEVERE COLOR LOSS If a garment was cleaned in solvent, this is common and is routinely corrected by spraying. COLOR OR DYE TRANSFER Most frequently seen in multi-color garments cleaned in solvent. This occurs because one or more of the colors was not colorfast and bled from one section of the garment to another, generally a result of a manufacturer not using colorfast dyes. This is a far less frequent problem with garments cleaned by a water-based system. A similar problem can occur with cloth garments, especially those with light colors, that have leather trim. The trim may bleed, leaving color on the fabric. Sometimes this can be corrected.
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